Picture Wire Spool




picture wire spool
I’m looking for an inexpensive Mig for personal auto use.?

Model WE 6480A. Features electronic wire speed control with Tweco type torch, multiple power settings for accurate welding power control, operates from standard 120 volt circuit, automatic thermal safety switch prevents overload. Specs: Max Output: 95 Amp, Input: 110 Volt, 1 Phase, Duty Cycle: 20% @ 60 Amp, Wire Size: .030 – .035, Heat settings: 2, Max metal thickness: 1/8″, Wire Spool: 2 lbs. Welder shows some wear from previous use, please see the big pictures below.

Would this welder do the job? I’ll be welding body panels mostly on a 1999 cavelier and a 1965 Chevy P/U.
I do not plan on doing any frame work. Maybe a cross member on my Cavelier. I heard that gassless welds are hard to paint, is that true?

Get a 220V welder atleast.
Do not use gasless wire, it is terrible and should never have been invented. MIG means Metal Inert Gas and the wire should always have an externally supplied shielding gas to protect the weld zone from atmospheric contamination. I suggest a Argon/Carbon dioxide mix, 92% argon and 8% CO2 is my favorite for mild steel.
Im concerned that this welder only has 2 heat settings, you want as much variance in voltage output as possible, and same with wire speed control. Personally I would only buy a Mig welder that has fully independant wire and voltage controls with a digital display and infinite settings( like you can dial right from 5 volts to 23.3 volts if you wanted and same with wire, only limited by the machines performance) but welders like that are quite expensive, and im guessing you don’t want to spend $2000.
Look for as much control as you can get, instead of 2 heat settings go for 10(if you can find that many) and your wire speed should be right from lets say 70 inchs per minute right to 700 or as fast as the machine will go, instead of just a few settings for that.
More control is better, you want to beable to dial your machine exactly for what you are welding. A 115v welder may not have enough heat, and more voltage to the wire is always better(atleast you can turn it down if its too hot, if the welder just doesnt have the juice you cant weld at all).
My suggestions:
220V welder
independant wire speed and voltage dials
Argon/CO2 shielding gas
Er70s-6 solid wire in .030 for body work

Spend as much as you can, the quality of your welding machine will greatly affect the quality of your work, I have a Miller XMT-304 with a 22A wire feeder that cost about $6000, and Im buying a $1000 TIG kit soon and a $1400 30A spoolmatic aluminum gun. I would rather save for a few months than buy something I wouldnt be satisfied with, but thats just me.

P.s
Im a welder by trade, so my need for quality equipment is probably a little more extreme than what you will be doing, but i have used $300 welders before and they worked horribly. If you spend $900 on a Miller Millermatic 180 you will have an awesome piece of hardware that will last for years and works just as good as my $6000 machine(except the millermatic 180 is not rated for material thicker than 1/4…but it welds awesome up to that point and even a little beyond if you turn it up)
Save yourself alot of headaches and just buy a good piece of equipment, if you spend $300 and then find you bought a piece of junk you just wasted money but if you save for a month and get a miller you will have something you can actually use. I have used the millermatic 180 before and it works great, and it really is not that expensive.

Construct :: Slideshow :: March 20, 2010


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